use rigid foam on basement partition walls - partition walls for home

by:EBUNGE     2019-08-19
use rigid foam on basement partition walls  -  partition walls for home
Q: Should I use screws or nails when building basement walls?
What is the best choice for longterm strength?
A: I always use nails when making frames for the basement walls, although the screws are stronger and easier to disassemble.
The walls in the basement are not under a lot of pressure, so the strength is not a problem.
Considering that nails are much faster to put in, there's really nothing to think about.
On top of that, I think you should keep the minimum because the basement wall that was built was a fact.
The reason is moisture.
While the frame wall is the only way to partition the basement, I strongly recommend that you use hard foam to heat the wall.
Different from the frame wall filled with fiberglass, foam
If the conditions become wet, the system based on will not mold.
Some manufacturers produce foam products with groove edges and are designed to accept wooden strips.
Screws that go through this wood into the basement wall of the underlying masonry fix the foam in place, while also providing a surface for later anchoring the drywall or paneling.
When a frame design is required for partitions, deliberately make them 15mm shorter than the space between the basement floor and the bottom edge of the above floor support beam.
This gap allows you to tilt the wall upright without disturbing the beam.
When you anchor the top of the partition wall, insert the glue-
Wood wedges coated in the gap (
One on each side, so overlap)
, Then push some deck screws into the floor support beam.
One more thing: instead of fixing the bottom plate of the partition wall directly on the concrete floor, put down the Cedar 2 by 4 or 2 by 6 at the top of the steam barrier plastic strip first.
Use a pin driven with a powder drive tool to secure this cedar wood onto a concrete floor. This rot-
Proof that the ground floor of the second floor raises the wall, providing additional space for installing tiles under the floor.
Q: How can I stop the wind
Drive the rain into the walls cave of my cabin?
Built in 2001, on the shore of Lake Huron, storms sometimes cause water to leak into walls and floors from vinyl siding and windows.
I would like to remove all the siding currently, check for damage and install the new one.
A: I suspect that if people know how often their walls and windows allow water to enter the cavity of the wall, there will be more homeowners unhappy.
The trouble is that this kind of thing is often hidden.
First of all, we must understand that the protection of a layer of water is not enough.
If you really want to get the water out completely, you need to take two ways
Partial method: an external wall system at the top of some drainage channel that allows the leaking water to leak innocently before destroying the wall structure itself.
First, install a plastic rain basin at the bottom and above each rough window opening.
If there is water around the window, it will hit the rain cover and drain the water without soaking the wood.
It is also a good idea to install a proper system to flash around the window.
This is provided by several companies, far beyond the design of most new windows.
I often see the vinyl siding of the bare lakeside villa torn off, so I will not recommend vinyl as per your situation.
Cedar wood tile is a great choice for the side walls and looks great by the lake.
However, it is not prudent to simply fix them directly outside the wall.
If a leak does occur, the water will be trapped between the wall sheath and the wooden tile, creating a strong hotbed for decay.
You need to create a vertical drain channel behind any side plate, so any leaking water (
This is what the best is sure to do)
Harmless escape.
A product called Home Slicker (
Google "home slicker" for information)
I can recommend an example.
It is a soft non-woven mesh with a thickness of about a quarter of an hour.
Before the cedar wood tile falls down, it is applied to the outside of the wall, it maintains the vertical airspace behind the wood tile, allowing drainage.
A product called DELTA. DRY (cosella-dorken. com; 888-4DELTA4)
Is a dimples-like plastic sheet material designed to be used to make the underneath of a stone or plaster, creating the same whole
If you choose any of these exterior wall options, important drainage action.
Steve Maxwell, a technical editor at the Canadian family workshop, appeared in a new house and apartment on Saturday.
Register his free homeowner newsletter at www. stevemaxwell. ca.
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