Q: How to prevent the festival from being displayed on painted pine tree decorations?
I will be in my 90-year-
After the old house was removed to replace the window, I heard that a special primer was required to be applied before painting.
I want to finish the decoration with clear varnish, but it has too many dents and holes.
I'll fill these out before painting.
A: Although it is common to show through paint after application, in your case, this may not be a problem.
The reason is that the wood is too old.
When the resin penetrates into the surface and causes discoloration, the knot is shown through paint, but the resin may now be completely oxidized.
I recommend a stain for the sake of safety-Closed primer.
I used the BIN product from Zinsser and it worked very well.
Brush two light coats on the knot, let it dry, and then use your latex.
Have you decided on a filler?
For work like yours, I usually use car body filler.
It treats fast and hard, and the sand is very good.
Be sure to choose a smooth type, not a type of reinforced fiber.
Floor Q: Can I build a partition wall on the top of the floor in the basement?
I want to eliminate as much wood contact with the concrete basement floor as possible, but I don't know if the bottom panel can support the wall. A: Non-load-
The load-bearing wall can be built directly on top of all the underlying products I know.
Since these walls do not apply much downward force, there is no problem.
Once you build your wall and move it to the final position, pass through the bottom of the wall frame, through the tiles under the floor, before driving the Tapcon screws, and then drill into the concrete.
Although it is not necessary, I prefer to fix the partition wall with building adhesive and screws.
When you work, build walls that are slightly shorter than the height between the floor and the wooden frame above. Aim for a ¼-inch to ½-
Inch gap above the top of the wall.
This allows the wall to be tilted upright without being stuck on the overhead support beam.
Fill this gap with a wooden wedge, fix it with glue and screws, and fix it to the top when the wall rises.
Q: How can I minimize 4-
I saved an inch of thick elm wood for the desktop?
It's from 100-year-
Our property was cut down by the old tree.
Three days after cutting, apply the wax log underseal at the end of the board.
It sounds like a great piece of wood.
I'm glad you made it a good thing.
The shrinkage of the wood around the log is more than in the annual growth ring, which is why the wood cracks.
The thicker a piece of wood, the larger the perimeter of the log you get, and as the drying occurs, more internal stress will be generated inside the wood.
To make matters worse, I know from experience that elm trees are more prone to cracking than many other woods.
Soon after cutting, you sealed the end of the board and it was a good start as this was where rapid unbalanced drying occurred in the first place.
The key to minimum cracking is to slow down the drying as much as possible, which means a long seasoning process in an unheated building.
I give it three or four years.
After that, cut the cardboard into a certain length and then measure the moisture content of the fresh end with a moisture meter.
If it drops to 10 to 14 cents then you can put it in the heated interval for further work.
Even so, keep the temperature in the working space between 10C and 15C to promote slow drying.
Whatever you do, there is inevitably some cracking in this thick wood, but the wax filling Rod provides one of the best ways to hide the cracks.
In a project like this, the normal wood filler will almost always make a mess because it will loose in time.
Instead, finish the table you completed without filling in any cracks that may exist.
Take the table home and let it sit down during a full heating season.
This may be enough to have any unavoidable additional cracks before the wood is fully stabilized.
Only in this way should you fill the cracks with wax.
Select the same or slightly darker color as the desktop.
The filler lighter than the surrounding Wood looks terrible.
Syndicate home improvement and woodworking columnist Steve Maxwell shares his DIY tips
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