Our children have grown up and are leaving home, so we decided to take back their land.
Because we live in an attic, No. brick)
We decided to renovate and install steel and glass partitions.
The price is quoted from 15. Thousands of euros or more. .
Because I do have some TIG-
Welding experience I decided to save money and take the challenge to do it myself.
This Instructure contains all the useful suggestions, tips, warnings, and lessons learned to prepare for similar projects.
Of course, the specific measures in your home will vary, so you have to adjust them.
Since I live in Belgium in Europe, all measures are male/mm.
I think America (
And other countries that use imperial units)
Stock metal also has a similar quote, all measurements are easy to convert using Excel: 1 inch = 25.
4mm design objectives: Cost Overview: Total cost :~ € 3000 of course, these costs are roughly proportional to the width and height of the wall you are building.
Since my project has a total of about 20 m ^ 2, the security estimate is a budget of 150 euro/m ^ 2.
Technology: you will use several kinds of metal in this project
Work Tips: try to estimate: As you can see, this is not a project that you can complete over the weekend, but the end result will be a beautiful partition that lasts for many years. .
Thank you for reading and wish you a fun and successful "Steel Engineering.
The overall size of the ceiling is about 2650mm high.
I need two walls, the first one is 4100mm wide and the second one is 3800mm wide.
1 understand the overall size.
Tip: The walls are never 100% straight and/or vertical.
So you need around 20 to 40mm to adjust.
Tip: the floor and ceiling are never 100% flat, so you also need some space to adjust.
I decided to keep the distance above the floor small (~10mm)
More space on the ceiling (~60mm)
Space for the curtain track.
As for aesthetics: the next step for steel profiles is to decide which steel profiles to use.
Of course, you want to minimize the number of different types.
I decided to use 5 different profiles as shown in Figure 1.
2: The frame GlassI adds two crosses
Section diagram explaining how glass is framed into steel: Figure 1.
3 is the vertical cross section Figure 1.
4 Display horizontal cross section.
These numbers refer to the configuration files in the section above.
4 per segment (identical)
Pieces of glass.
The glass thickness of 6mm is enough, but I decided to use tempered safety glass on the door because there is more force on the door.
All fixed sections have regular floating glass.
Each piece of glass is installed in the frame and fixed from the back with a second metal profile.
Initially, I planned to fix the glass beads with small bolts, but I found it easier to "glue" the glass beads with silicone and the effect was good.
As you may know, it takes a lot of time to plan and adjust the size.
To be able to adjust various sizes easily and still have a consistent list of parts (
Number and size)
I started Microsoft Excel.
It takes some time to make a spreadsheet, but it forces you to really think about how all dimensions work together.
Finally, it generates a list of parts that you can translate into a list of parts that order raw materials.
In Belgium, the length of the crude steel is 6 m, but since this is too long for shipping, I ordered it to have cut the length of about 3 m.
Your Excel parts list will also help in how to optimize cutting parts from the original inventory with minimal loss.
Description of Excel parts list: excel has 3 "orang" areas as input: I suggest to double check all formulas and results to make sure you understand the design completely.
This project does not require any special tools except a TIG welder and a cutting steel saw.
Still, as a reference, I 've listed all the tools needed here, as well as more tips related to them.
Cut: from the parts list, you can see that you will cut hundreds of steel profiles.
It's really no choice to do this with a grinder and a cutting disc.
You need a serious steel cutting saw, preferably a cutting saw that can be cut into a 45 degree angle.
I don't have such a cutter myself, but a friend of mine helped me in his shop.
I decided to buy a brand new blade to get the sharpest and cleanest one.
Drilling and tapping: different parts will be bolted to the floor, ceiling and neighbors.
To do this, I drilled 3mm holes on the side of the segment and 4mm holes on the bottom/top.
Considering the number of holes, I would recommend using a drill press.
Grinding: for the benefit of cleaning the weld, no further treatment is required and you need to clean the steel.
Grind it into blank steel.
I did most of the welding without adding filler material, so there is no need to clean the weld after that.
Welding: TIG welding machine.
The current is up to 100 amps, so any TIG welder should be OK.
There are no special requirements for the torch.
Of course, you need a pair of gloves, a helmet.
Some welding magnets can help to fit everything together before welding.
Safety tip: you may know this, but for the sake of safety: cutting: As said, you will cut a lot of steel, so you need a setting with end stop, this way you can easily cut the same parts without having to measure each one. . .
On the other hand, I was worried about making a mistake and only found this out when assembling.
So I decided to cut all the parts for a piece to check if they were assembled together. (See image 4. 1)
I then started cutting all the parts one by one to minimize the installation effort and make sure all the parts are the same. (See Image 4. 2)
The soft steel that cuts 4mm is tough, and when you cut it at a 45 degree angle, it is actually 6mm steel.
So you need the right saw.
I don't have it myself, but I have a friend who helped me with this in a great store.
Tip: set an end stop so all your work is the same length.
Tip: Buy a new blade for the saw (~50 euro).
When you do the welding later, you will enjoy a smooth and clean cut.
Tip: This kind of steel cutting usually requires cooling/lubrication fluid: a mixture of water and some cutting oil.
Warning: cutting the steel with a 45 degree diagonal leads to a sharp part: you dropped it (eg)
On your feet it may go through your shoes.
So wear the right safety clothes and shoes.
Keep the area clean and safe, don't rush.
Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your ears.
Drilling: Bolt different parts to the floor, ceiling and neighbors.
To do this, I drilled 3mm holes on the side of the segment and 4mm holes on the bottom/top.
Sink head V for 4mm holes-further drilling
So the bolts are flush with the profiles.
The hole of 3mm is used to hit M4 thread.
Cutting oil for drilling and tapping teeth. See Image 4.
6 Welding: I prefer TIG-in all welding techniques-
Welding, also known as GTAW (
Tungsten gas welding
: Think this is the best technique for this type of project as you will do some smaller welds but they need to be very precise.
When the parts are assembled well (
You made a clean cut)
When the parts are properly cleaned into blank steel, you can finish welding everything without filling the material: during the welding process, the two parts simply melt together.
Each welder needs to adjust the settings according to his specific settings, but let me start with some numbers.
Tip: Take some of the remaining steel from your wound and do some testing
Set the correct weld.
Make sure the weld has enough deep penetration. 3.
5mm out of 4mm configuration files. see Image 4.
To maximize the size of all the parts that were welded flush, I decided to make a jigsaw puzzle.
This is just a mid-fiber board, it is a placeholder for the future glasson.
There are some extra holes on the medium fiber board
Fixture, you can easily place the fixture when welding to fix all profiles.
Cut off the corner you need to enter with a flashlight. See Image 4.
4 below is the order in which I weld all the parts: I made the door handle with some of the remaining 40x20x4mm profiles with a cut length of 160mm. See image 4. 5.
Make sure to weld the door handle at the same height on the left and right doors.
After welding, all parts must be painted.
In order to have a professional finish, I decided to make them powder-
In a shop nearby.
: Because it is no longer possible to adjust things after the powder coating (
Have some extra welding or grinding)
I decided to assemble everything for testing before the paint work.
I need some extra transportation but it gives you extra peace of mind and everything will be OK in the end.
Tip: parts that need to be hung (On The Wire)
So they can spray from all directions.
If there is a hole on the part that can hang it, it is much easier.
So I decided to drill a small hole of 3mm on every part that has no other use.
Note: this is just some pictures on the internet as I don't have any pictures of powder
Coating of this project.
Floors, walls, and ceilings are never 100% straight and horizontal as mentioned before, so you need a small room to adjust the distance between the floor, walls and ceilings, and steel partitions.
I decided to build this with 30mm plywood.
I glued about 18mm and 12mm with the rest of the plywood.
There is a very thin piece on the floor ~ 10mm.
This means that the doors have about 10mm free space on the floor, so they can swing freely.
Since I have round concrete columns there, about 30mm are used on both sides and I need to adjust to fit them.
I connected another piece of 40x20x4 L with a bolt-
Outline on the ceiling and screw 30mm plywood on it.
Again, you need to add an extra 10mm above the door so they can swing freely.
Door controls: As for the doors, I want them on the door controls (
We call them "floor pumps ")
So they turn off automatically.
This also allows the door to open to both sides.
I bought 4 pieces of Dorma BTS84 which is a very popular premium pump.
It needs to cut a rectangular hole on the floor according to their drawings.
The pump can adjust 10mm but not more so you need to cut the whole very precisely.
In the metal door itself, you also need to cut a whole that fits the pump axis.
On the ceiling, I simply drilled a 5mm hole and knocked on the M6 line.
M6 bolts enter the plywood mounted on the ceiling.
The rotating axis of the door is 80mm from the outside.
Dorma recommends more than 56mm
With 80mm I am sure the door is free to rotate and there is only about 2mm space on both sides.
If you modify the size of the design, this is something you would like to double check with some drawings.
You can also export the size of the glass from the Excel parts list.
I decided to keep 4mm of the space around the glass ,(
So subtract 8mm from maximum width and height.
To prevent the glass from cracking due to any tension, I did the following: installation: cut some medium fiber boards or wood into 4mm pieces. .
This is to support the glass on the steel tip: After the silica gel is dried, cut off the remaining part of the medium fiber board.
The last two pictures show
After installing the glass and glass beads, you can see the front and back.