Sooner or later everyone doing home improvement needs to build a wall, a floor deck or a roof.
Whether you hire someone to do the job or do it yourself, there are four general rules for saving money in this type of work, called frameworks. Use high-
Good quality wood, but slightly smaller in size than wood used traditionally;
In other words, don't buy bigger frame wood than you actually need.
If the appearance is suitable for your taste, use the structural particle board sheath or use the structural siding such as textured plywood.
When appropriate, adhesive and modern fasteners such as frame hardware, cement coated nails, ring handle nails, etc. are used to ensure that walls, floors, or roofs are stronger.
It's stupid to save pennies on these items. Use pre-
Build the truss, not the big one (
2x10 and 2x12)
If you are paying a high labor cost for the job, Torre or raf son. Pre-
The truss built is easier to install and contains openings for wires and pipes.
Frame wall panels are made of 2x4 wooden nails 16 inch apart.
This method is deeply rooted in architectural knowledge and has been resisted more than any amendment to it.
However, improvements in materials and an increase in understanding of pressure have enabled carpenters to build solid walls in other ways.
The traditional design of the frame wall month x the fourth center of 16 inch in the United States has developed a thick wood cloth, which is not classified, often does not do, and is accompanied by old-fashioned nails.
Many carpenters use frame walls (
Floor and roof)
As if they are still using these old materials, call their method the right one or the quality framework.
However, the tests show that walls built in the old way are almost always stronger than needed.
It also means they are more expensive than they need.
However, there are other ways to build walls, use wood of smaller sizes, separate the frame members, or both. Using such non-
The traditional approach initially costs less money, or brings savings in the long run.
However, we insert a warning here.
Overall, the cost savings approach I recommend has been promoted by national research and government agencies over the past 20 years.
But it may not be appropriate for all applications or even for the approval of local building regulations.
If the load is heavy, because the equipment on the floor is heavy, or the snow is piled up on the roof, these methods may not be enough.
Also, never less than required by local building codes.
Ask the inspector if the method you selected is acceptable, either the method specified in the code or the equivalent method.
If the inspector says no, comply with the decision or appeal.
The partition wall is a non-bearing wall.
It just separates one space from the other and doesn't support anything.
The partition wall can be removed, and nothing will be lost in the structure of the House;
Again, as long as the final room size fits the building code, you can erect one to divide the space anywhere in the house.
Distinguish internal non
It's tricky to load walls from the inside, and usually it's best to leave it to an expert, unless you're very familiar with the frame of the House, have and be able to explain the blueprint, or know how to calculate the load.
The load-bearing wall means that the wall supports the above --
Part of the roof, floor support beams above the head, etc.
Without the temporary support of something supported above, these walls cannot be removed and then put things in its position --
A new wall like this, a beam
This is the work of supporting the weight above.
Most of the exterior walls are load-bearing walls, although the exterior walls at the end of the gable or shed are not technically classified as load-bearing walls.
Some of the inner walls are load-bearing.
In almost every part of North America, building permits are required to remove or replace load-bearing walls.