portable solar power supply - movable walls on wheels

by:EBUNGE     2019-08-29
portable solar power supply  -  movable walls on wheels
Hello there.
You may have found this note to gather ideas about making your own portable solar power supply.
I 've always been interested in electronics, this project is the latest idea I came out of my mind, why not make a portable box on a wheel, I can basically plug anything in, is that driven by the sun?
So I think I should share this note with the rest of the world.
The first thing to do is think about the fact that you want to power through the sun, the whole House will be fine, but it's a bit too expensive and not very portable.
During the year, our family often went camping, so I knew what I was thinking.
Energy-saving bulbs of about 12 volts, a 15 inch LCD TV with freeto-
Air digital receiver, some kind of radio/CD player is also good to charge our phone/sat navs and also to inflate our air --
The bed, one is 12 v dc, and the other is 240 v ac.
With all this in mind, I started looking at the price of the components on sites like Ebay and Maplin, because the price is a very important factor in designing the solar system.
Our LCD and receiver draw 2.
12 volt 2 Amp DC, energy saving lighting consumes less than 1 amp for 12 watt bulbs, while the phone/GPS charger consumes very little power.
For example, using TV for up to 3 hours per day is equal to 6 hours.
Consumption 6Ah for 4-
About 4 ah is consumed 5 hours per night, while all the charging times for portable devices are about 2 ah, while air-
The bed will not run for a long time, so it may only consume about 1Ah, 13 in total. 6Ah.
The deep cycle battery should not discharge less than 50% of the rated capacity, the smaller the discharge cycle, the longer the battery lasts, so the 30 Ah battery is enough.
In the summer, the UK receives an average of 6 hours of sunshine, which is when we go camping and replace each year.
6Ah battery charge takes about 5 hours. (
Watt = voltage x amps)(
Maximum power = average solar panel voltage at 17 V)(
50 W/17 v = 2. 94 Amps)
It is easier to get power from the battery than to replace it, and the power required to charge is usually 10% more than the power consumed, so :(14Ah / 2. 94 Amps = 4.
Direct sunlight for 76 hours)
In the real world, this will never happen because of too many different factors;
Solar panels are blocked, cloudy, battery temperature, wiring size, and other losses.
Therefore, it is safer to use a larger battery pack, and if the weather conditions of the next day are not suitable for efficient solar charging, then power can be reused.
With that in mind, I know I need a battery of the right size, with a capacity between 50 and ah.
Since my system needs to be portable, I decided to buy an ah battery, I bought a battery of about 90 degrees from Ebay, and then a rated power of 50 watts
At first, I decided to add an array up to 48 watts on an 80-watt panel so that I could generate about 7 amps of power in direct sunlight, it was easy to charge my battery consumption the night before and the price was just over 170.
All of a sudden, the idea of a car CD player host seems quite appropriate at this point.
Again, after browsing the miracle of Ebay, I chose Sony Mexico.
BT3800U is a headset with FM reception, Front Assist and USBinput as well as a Bluetooth phone connection that allows both talk and audio streaming and costs me £ 30.
After selecting these main components, I started drawing rough drawings of what I wanted my portable solar generator to look like.
I have included the design of my final choice, the front panel of all switches and power outlets, the angle panel and car sound for installing the display, the speakers on the side, the 2AC output, there is enough wiring space inside.
The design depth I chose depends on the depth of the battery, about 33 cm, allowing the width of the battery, the headset and two speakers will be installed in 54 cm of the space, and the height is due to the height of the battery, the charging controller is mounted above the battery.
My battery weight is 26g/SSO for reinforcing and fixing the mid-fiber board of 12mm thick.
The battery compartment needs to be cooled to discharge any gas, and the main space needs to extract hot air generated by the host and the inverter.
Ichose rocker switches with led are controllers, usually because they look better than other types of switches, and their small form factor allows many people to use in a small space at the same time as the 3 volt indicator (
12 v use the required resistance)
Shows when the device is on or off.
Cost: around 2 with red, green or yellow indicators. (Ebay)
The inverter is an improved sine wave inverter with a peak of 600 w, 1200 W, although I have never planned to use anything with a maximum power of more than 200 W, if using it with a 20 a blade type fuseCost: £35. (Ebay)
Most of the lines used are 14gw that 15 amp can support, except for the main power supply from the battery to the main switch of the inverter, which is 11gw that 25 amp can support.
Each cigarette lighter socket blends with a 10 amp fuse, while the charging controller fuses with 15 Am p before the main system fuse, meaning that if the main fuse explodes, if an abnormal high voltage level occurs, the connected device and stereo are safe, directly from the solar panel.
Cost: About 5 including 4 blocks.
The speaker is XS-F1331, 3-
WayXplod car speakers with a peak of 140 watts and a RMS of 25 watts. Cost: £9 (Ebay)
The front panel digital ammeter and voltmeter are the first choice for my system measurement as I don't like the traditional analog mobile meter very much.
In addition to these meters, most of my components are from Ebay, which can be obtained from the very good website www. virtualvillage. co. uk .
Royal Mail, located in Hong Kong, offers fast delivery and while their products are first class, lost two dollars somewhere in the mail, the virtual village sent two free ones in a friendly way.
Cost: 6 for voltmeter. 99, Ammeter £8. 99 each. (
Ammeters are equipped with a 20Amp splitter. )
Cooling fan: maplin Electronics (www. maplins. co. uk )Cost: £5. 99 each.
Heavy duty casters and spring handles cost about £ 15 in total. (Ebay)
DC cigarette outlets: Price: £ 3 per (Ebay)
20Amp charging controller: cost?
80 W panel purchased on Ebay?
Curly terminals for all switches, sockets, fuses and other connections: about £ 10 (Ebay)Wood -
12mm thick medium fiber board (
Medium density cardboard
3 m x 3 m sheets and 1x1/2 inch pine trees, 5 m long, suitable screws: about 15 from Archibalds.
The total number of miscellaneous connectors provided by Ebay for host connection/solar connection is approximately £ 5.
2 Way home power outlets: Cost: N/A, clean up from our attic as it is redundant to replace them with metal outlets.
Battery-powered central heating thermostat automatically turns on the fan at 26 degrees Celsius: £ 15 (Ebay)12VDC-
12VDC1W isolation converter: Cost: £ 6. 15 each. (
Maplin Electronics)
Low current LED in charging state: cost 2. 49 per bag of5. (
Maplin Electronics)
Now that I know what I want my box to look like and where I started making the physical box.
I laid the mid-slim boards on the floor and accurately drew the walls and interior shelves of the boxes, so all I had to do was cut them off.
Most cutting is done using a manual daily cross saw, while I use the electric Dewalt puzzle to cut holes in head units, cooling fans, meters, sockets, speakers and switches.
Cut these little holes into the hardest part of this description because the slightest mistakes require a lot of attention
Cutting can seriously affect the appearance of the final product. I simply pre-
Cut all the parts and then assemble them together with 1 inch wooden screws, but drill holes first before inserting to prevent the mid-fiber plate from splitting.
In any case, the easiest part for me is to connect everything together.
Most devices are connected by bus. bars.
The digital panel ammeter cannot operate with the circuit they measure, so two DC-
DC converters are critical to the project. They take 11-
Remove the 15 V voltage from the battery and convert it to an isolated, regulated 12 V power supply.
This is why the splitter before the main fuse in the circuit, I can measure the current entering the battery, and there is no danger of short circuit before the fuse, because the current meter discussed is completely isolated from the main power supply.
However, the digital voltmeter can be powered from the power supply it measures.
I can't really explain how my line is connected, because although the circuit diagram for my particular project is shown here, each situation will vary according to your requirements.
As long as you connect your wires carefully and correctly, make sure all crimpings are safe and the connectors are connected, all exposed wires are fully covered with tape or heat shrink tubes we don't want huge sparks and fire on our hands, do we?
The charging controller I use is bog standard bulk charging, on-
No charging controller, nothing fancy.
The controller has 4 LED lights indicating the way the battery is charged, the charging status of 25, 50, 75 and 100%, I turn on the controller, cut off the LED on their heads, add wires to the legs, cover the exposed legs with a heat shrink tube, then buy some low current LEDs from mappers and arrange them on the front panel.
As shown in the figure, there are a lot of lines in my particular generator.
In order for the generator to look like a part and for people to be able to see what the switch is doing, the label is critical.
I make the label by designing the label on Microsoft Word, then printing it on the bog standard printer, cutting the label accurately, applying the daily paste tape to the front and back, cover the back of the label area with double sided tape and then cut off the label again.
This method is like a charm and seems to be lasting.
Yes, after making sure all the connectors are firm and correct, and the generator works in the current state of the battery power supply, it's time to connect the panel.
My PV array consists of four 12-watt solar panels and two 80-watt solar panels.
When the sky is blue, a lot of juice will still produce good power output when it is cloudy.
Since the DC and DC generated by photovoltaic panels are not as efficient as AC in driving along long wires, try to make the wires between the panel and the charging controller as short as possible to avoid voltage drops.
My Wire is about 15 m long and can easily drag it into the house and can be positioned with a large number of available wires when camping.
My first 48-watt original array uses a folded wood rack to support the panel, however, the wood is not a good material for this work and it keeps getting wet, mine ended up rotting after a winter and I didn't want to take the risk of happening again on my expensive 160 watt array, so I decided I needed some sort of metal stand.
The miracle of browsing the internet, I found Ebay (yeah I know! ; ))
There are some pre-made, made of aluminum, with different sizes, but the price is around £ 50. I thought "Pah!
I will do some By Myself ", I got the length of the aluminum rod for free from my dad's workplace and found some spare nuts and bolts as hinges from our garage.
I wish my panel could be adjusted according to the time of year, so I drilled a few holes along the support leg so that I could use some thumb screws to change the angle (
The one you found behind the office chair, but smaller)
, The bolts can be removed quickly to change the angle, just like the one provided on Ebay for £ 50 :).
Finally, in order to connect all the panels together, I made a waterproof junction box so that all three panels can be connected to the end of the cable and disconnected while moving or shipping.
I bought an LCD digital ammeter on Ebay for around 3.
This is a school type meter, the LCD screen is physically screwed to the PCB when the lid is removed to remove the board, which makes things easier, many LCD monitors today use the actual product housing to fix the screen on the pins on the PCB.
This ammeter fits closely with my waterproof junction box and uses the PP3 9 v battery.
It allows me to see how much power the panel generates without having to venture in to see my ammeter on my solar generator.
Solar panels are naturally expensive and are therefore the target of potential offenders, requiring an alert.
To protect my PV panel, it took me a few days to search for alarm products on the Internet.
I tried a battery powered vibration sensor that is the type you use on windows, but the gusts at wind or rain spots are big, so I started working on another one
I finally had the idea of designing a ring alarm. e.
The alarm is activated when the loop is disconnected.
My special circuit uses two tent pegs, each with a wire attached to the ground.
If the wire is broken or a tent Bolt is removed from the ground, the 100dB alarm is activated, which means that the panel can move about 1 square meter, but no longer, so criminals can't steal the panel.
My alarm is powered with a 6AA battery, 9 V while it only consumes 0.
08 mA waiting for activation in standby state, which means the battery will last for nearly 2 years.
The alarm must be turned off by a key switch to deactivate, just like reconnecting the loop, the alarm will still sound.
It all comes in a small project box that is Silicon and attached to the back of one of my panels because the double sided tape is not up to the day-to-day heating work.
Each wire on the nail is about 1 m long, long enough to wrap around the panel stand, but not too long to get in the way when moving the panel.
A small miniature switch is part of the loop installed in the project box, and as a tamper switch, it gives an alarm if the alarm is disturbed.
I also include a small flashing LED that automatically turns on in the dark to heat when the alarm is activated.
The circuit is very similar to the alarm circuit, simply replace the buzzer with a flashing LED, remove the relay, and replace the hook with LDR.
A few months after completing this project, I still feel the need to add more functionality to my portable solar generator.
Because my host has a front USB port, I used the traditional 4 GB flash stick and the trouble is that there is not much music space for 4 gb, the big memory stick for 32 gb or larger is a bit expensive and I guess why not buy a USB powered hard drive and integrate it into my box.
I visited the appliance store in curry and spent £ 39 on a SE 500 GB drive powered by the Western data bus. 99.
As an external box, it is prone to impact and drop, so I decided to install it inside my solar generator with a separate USB port on the side, that way a separate cable can then go to the HQ and even go to the PC to edit the music on the drive.
Another problem came up and when the drive was installed inside I couldn't see the LED indicator to make sure it was safe to unplug the drive, so it was necessary to install an external LED on my box.
I designed a circuit that uses LDRblu.
When the hard drive indicator lights flash, the LED pinned on the hard drive flashes instead of opening the drive and physically connecting the external LED, which will void the drive warranty.
The circuit diagram is shown here, designed to run out of 12 VDC, 2-
In my case, an LED installed 34 p in tidily in Maplin's 3mm panel mounting clip
Now I can drive my music with the sun, currently I have 2700 songs on my hard drive, but my specific Sony host can only read up to 128 albums, each folder can only read up to 500 which is a problem for me as I can't put all my music on the music I want to put.
Now that the portable solar generator is complete, it's time to sit down and enjoy free, clean green energy, wherever you like!
When everything was added together, the project cost me about £ 700 in total, giving me a lot of free power and unlimited enjoyment.
Please ask and thank you for reading if you have any questions! :)
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