I am carving a small space in my garage attic and transforming it into a human cave.
The walls and ceiling of the attic are already dry walls.
I have to get the cable into the new partition.
The easiest way to look is through the floor.
The trouble is that the ground floor of the attic is the tongue-and-
Groove directional strands (OSB).
Removing a piece in the middle of the room will give me all the passages I need, but how can I do this without breaking the ground floor?
Is there any other benefit from doing so? —Perry B. Providence, R. I.
Each job is different and has its own pros and cons on how best to get from point A to Point B.
It sounds like I'm hiding from you, but I'm not.
In your case, it may make sense to pull the cable from the garage ceiling to the floor cavity.
The floor support beam in the garage loft may be perpendicular to the direction you need to extend the cable.
If so, it makes sense to remove a part of the sub-floor.
Many electricians have good skills in fishing cables from one point to another in the house.
If you know anything, it may be worth asking for their advice before you try to remove OSB.
Always remember, it's a trade.
No time or energy.
You may find that it takes only 15 minutes to delete and reinstall OSB.
The second method
Make many small holes in the finished wall and ceiling to run the cable
It can cause repair and repair work for an hour or two.
More importantly, your drywall repair skills may not be as sophisticated as your rough woodworking talent.
I have removed many floors in my career.
The difficulty depends on how they were originally installed.
Many years ago I found it a good idea to screw off the attic floor.
Some carpenters prefer to use nails and glue, but this creates huge obstacles when you need to remove a piece of floor.
Using screws without glue allows you to remove a piece in a short time.
The screws also allow easy access to the lower side of the attic floor in the future.
Remove a piece of tongue-and-
Groove OSB floor, first determine how thick it is.
You can drill a small hole along the seam you are going to cut to do this.
Carefully slide the toothpick to the bottom edge.
Mark the top with your finger and measure the number of toothpicks.
Most floors are 5/8. or 3 / 4-inch thick.
Look at the long side of OSB.
One side has a tongue and the other side has a groove.
When the material is installed, the tongue of one OSB slides into the groove of the other OSB, which prevents the long edges from drooping between the floor support beams.
You need to make a cutting line on the long edge between the two floors to get them out of each other.
I cut the tongue with a round saw and adjust the cutting depth to 1-
8 inch less than OSB floor thickness.
You never want to cut into the top of the loft floor support beam or the lower string of the loft truss.
This will weaken the members of the wood frame.
Once the tongue is cut on two long edges, the next step is to remove the fasteners.
I hope the carpenter who installed your OSB only used a few nails and did not use a nail gun.
The nail gun will often reverse the nail head below the surface of the OSB.
This makes it difficult to pull out nails. Use a wet-
Dry Vacuum, remove all sawdust from OSB surface after cutting off the tongue.
Sweep the whole block carefully.
This will help you to see the fastener head used to connect the floor to the floor pallet.
When I removed the nail from the wood, I had great success with two removal tools.
The first tool is called cat claws.
The tip of the tool has a V slot that you drive under the head of the nail with a hammer.
Once the nail head is engaged, you apply side pressure on the tool to remove the nail from the floor.
When all the fasteners have been removed, it is time to pry up the bottom panel from the floor support beam.
If no glue is used between the floor and the floor pallet, the panel should pop up.
I used a flat demolition crowbar to help start the lifting work.
Drive one end of the tool into the open seam between the two floor support beams and use the tool as a lever to lift up on the OSB to be removed.
If you run into resistance, it means you miss a fastener or two, or the glue may be your next hurdle.
If it's glue, the glue has a lot of bonding, you may have to cut each rectangle of OSB between the floor support beams, and then do a creative job to patch the floor.
When should I reinstall cut-
Outside the floor, you have to cut and nail 2 pieces of wood under the long edges on both sides.
The blockage replaces the tongue you cut off.
Remember: you have to slide it under the floor you didn't remove, but it's right next to the floor you took out.
Tim Carter is a columnist for The Tribune media service.
He can be contacted through his website at www. askthebuilder. com. com.