Jeff Howell reported that I was knocking on the internal partition wall last week to turn two rooms into one of the most popular home improvement jobs in a room. For the home-
This is still one of the most popular "Home Improvement" jobs with the public.
But I always try to convince people not to do that. Why?
First of all, it means there is a lot of dust and confusion at home.
Then you lose a room.
Don't mind if your total construction area stays the same
UK Realtors assess the value of the House based on the number of rooms, so the number of large rooms is less than two small rooms.
This also means that there is less wall space on both sides of the bookshelf and even a sofa can be placed.
This makes it harder for the house to heat because the larger the internal space, the greater the convection current that carries heat and away from the heat source.
Despite pointing out these shortcomings to them, the customer always decides to keep knocking --through.
It seems to be one of those "lifestyle" things like lighters and hardwood floors. The clients -
Or, more often, a lady customer.
They have put their hearts on it, but they will not be discouraged. So in we go. In older semi-
Separate or terrace house, the walls discussed are usually solid brick spine walls that separate the front and back rooms.
The name "spine" indicates how important this wall is to the entire skeleton of the House and why knocking a big hole on it is not an easy task to undertake.
Middle support of spinal wall-
The first span
Extending from the front to the back floor support beam, like the ceiling support beam above the bedroom, often provides some support for the roof structure.
I am often surprised by the way builders and DIYers knock on the ground --
The floor height on the spine wall does not seem to notice a large load placed on it.
When the wall is removed, adjustable steel props must be used to support the structure above.
There are several brands of these products, but they are commonly referred to as DoNews, just like vacuum cleaners are called Hoovers. If the first-
The floor support beam does go through the wall and it is likely that supporting the ceiling/floor with several acrow will also bear the load on the wall above.
However, when the beam is running parallel to the wall, the load above must be supported by inserting the needle --
That is, steel or thick wooden beams.
Through the walls of the upper floors, these walls are supported.
The load previously supported by the wall must now bear the replacement beam-
This is usually RSJ (
Steel support beam)
But great pressure.
Grading wood can also be used (
For olde worlde).
RSJ has to wear gypsum board for fire prevention, and the strange thing is that there is no wood (
Because, in the event of a house fire, the steel becomes soft and loses its strength, while the wood on the surface is burnt, but does not burn through).
The end of the replacement beam must be placed on the stone --
Evenly distribute the load on the concrete blocks on the surface of the remaining wall plates.
So the only concern you have is whether focusing the load on these causes them to sink underground, creating cracks and resilient floors further down the house.
Like I used to say
Are you really sure this is a good idea?
Ask Jeff about the paper of our former owner of 10year-
The old property decorated all the inner walls with a highly embossed wallpaper, decorated with an egg shell emulsion.
I wanted to remove this, but found in a test area that the paper surface of the gypsum board fell off with it when I tried to peel it off.
I also tried using two layers of lining paper on the existing relief wallpaper, but the pattern still shows up.
Do you have any suggestions?
TE, Jeff, Cambridge, replied that this is a self-evident big question about modern house buildings because of the internal partition wall (
And the inner surface of many exterior walls)
Very rarely full.
Instead, the Wall is "dry lining" with gypsum board and the wall is glued directly to it.
Ideally, the gypsum board should be first coated with an acrylic primer/sealant to allow the wall cover to be subsequently peeled off, but this has not been done in many cases.
I can only advise you to try the steam wallpaper stripper (
About 30 from DIY store).
Work in a small area at a time, try not to let the steam soften the gypsum board below.
Try peeling off the wallpaper with a low angle instead of pulling it out directly from the wall, and be very careful if you use a scraper.
This can be a slow, frustrating job, but once you take off the wall skin, you can apply gypsum board with a primer/sealant and patch any small rip or ditch on the surface with a filler, lightly polished with fine sandGrade sandpaper.
No pressure, we recently bought a house that we are renovating.
Our plumber found that the water pressure was not enough for the installation of a new central heating system and that a larger drilling pipe was needed to supply it.
Our problem is our water.
Supply the pipe to travel from the cock valve on the road under the perfect lawn next door and drive (some 20ft).
The neighbor said that he did not know the service pipeline and was understandable for any interference.
Another option would be to dig about 20 feet on our land and then dig 60 feet along the public Avenue to add another trunk line.
There will be quite a cost difference, and while I don't want to cause any inconvenience to my neighbors, we may not have much choice financially.
What advice do you have?
Jeff replied that a larger drilling pipe would not increase water pressure
It will only increase traffic.
But I wonder why your plumber thinks there's not enough pressure?
I can only imagine that he plans to install a combined boiler that can work under tap water pressure, not under indirect pressure from cold water
Tank in the attic.
But only one combination boiler
Bedroom Apartment not suitable for larger house.
I suggest you install a traditional boiler system;
In this case, the water pressure or flow rate will be irrelevant.