I built a few wooden sheds (
Okay, yard barn of Glory)
And want to equip one of them with sliding barn doors.
I like the look of the sliding doors, they are very practical for the shed, allowing for a wider entrance than the normal door.
But after visiting my local building store and looking at the cost of track and installation kit hardware, I developed a bad case of sticker impact.
The cheapest place I can find is the Tractor Supply, even where the price of the barn door hardware (
Not the door itself)
Depending on how beautiful it looks, from $246 to $326.
So I started looking around for a choice I could make myself up.
The biggest obstacle to any DIY sliding door is the wheel/roller.
I need something for external use that can roll smoothly and this heavy enough to abuse without spending one arm and one leg.
When I was looking around my shop for things that fit the bill, I stumbled across my son's old skateboard.
The wheel looks like the perfect fit for the job.
A few minutes after shopping online, I ordered a set of four skate wheels and bearings from Newclue Inc. via Amazon.
The total price of wheels with freight is $17. 35.
Next, I need a track to slide the wheels.
I found a solution in the electrical department of Home Depot.
It is called Superstrut and costs $15 for 10 long.
Side channel for thick gauge galvanized steel.
Unfortunately it is not 12' long and this is what I prefer to use so I have to buy 2 10-$30.
To provide a little extra power, I used two 6-
The foot length of the 1x1 horn iron is $26.
I suspect that this additional precaution is necessary and I think it can be built without it rail.
The hanger itself is quite simple.
1 "x 1/8" flat steel is bent in U shape and then drilled to hold the axle of the wheel/roller.
I purchased two 4' long flat stocks from Orchard Supply for a total of $18.
The other various nuts and bolts I use are $3.
The sliding Valley door hardware I completed cost a total of $95.
Yes, it's a bit more expensive than simple hinges and hasp locks, but it's also below the cheapest commercial price for the $246 barn door slider.
Here's how I made the barn door skateboard roller.
These photos show the skate wheels and bearings on arrival from Newclue.
The wheel is 1 9/64 "wide 2" high.
Cut 2 4' length 1 flat "flat stock in half to produce a total of 4 parts in 24 hours ".
Each part is then bent half around a 1 "metal tube.
To do this, place the flat stand on a solid bench or table, and then place the pipe at a right angle on the flat stand.
Clamp the tube on the workbench.
Grab each end of the flat plate and pull up.
Relatively easy to bend.
Pull the bend near the pipe with a hammer.
You want to have a fairly tight bend and about 1/4 space between the sides of the hanger.
Place the wheel in the appropriate position to ensure that the width of the bend will allow the wheel to move freely and mark it at the center of the flat base where the axle is located.
Cut a piece of 2x6 WOOD 1 1/4 "long and place it on both sides of the hanger for support.
Drill holes at the top and then at the bottom of the flat base you mark.
I do this with a drill, but you can do it with a hand drill if you are very careful to keep things vertical.
When the hanger is still clamped in place, switch to a drill bit of 5/16 and drill the final mounting hole for the axle.
Most scooter shafts are universal, but the diameter of the bearing is measured to ensure that the bolts of 5/16 fit closely.
As long as your wheel is far down enough so that it can turn freely, the shaft hole does not need to be precise from the exact position at the top of the hanger.
Washers need to be placed on each side of the wheel bearing in order to be able to tighten the shaft bolts, but the side of the hanger does not come into contact with the rubber wheel.
You also need to remember the thickness of the door.
In order to get the right result, you may need to try a different number of washers.
Drill two door mounting holes near the other end of the hanger.
The exact location of these holes will vary depending on the door you are building/using.
Just make sure the holes will be placed in a solid area of the door.
The roller/hanger is then painted and reassembled.
The first photo shows how the super pillar tracks look.
For 6 feet door openings like mine, the super pillar is cut into two 6 feet lengths with a total track length of 12 '.
The track is mounted to the building using four 3 "lag bolts, 12 steel washers (
Some nylon washers are shown in the photo, but all steel washers are used)
And four nuts, 11/16.
These nuts slide on Lag bolts and are only used as gaskets.
What is not shown is two 6 feet long 1x1 angle iron placed at the top of the super pillar.
To hang the railing, first place a temporary spacer about "thick" under your door hole.
Place your door on the top of this gasket and mark the height of the top edge of your door (
I did not cover the structure of the door or door in this note).
Make a second mark above the first mark.
For the height of the Carpenter, use this upper mark to draw a line extending 6' on both sides of the center of the door opening.
The line should be 12 feet long in total.
If you make your door wider or narrower than the 6' door opening used in this building, adjust your track accordingly.
Set the angle iron at the top of the super pillar and mark the angle iron at the hole center of the super pillar.
Drill a 3/8 hole through the angle iron.
Then, when an assistant keeps the super pillar right above the line you drew before, Mark and drill holes in the building under construction to get the lag screw.
If there are no bolts behind this hole, you need to cut and nail a 2x4 bracket between the existing bolts behind the hole.
The lag screw requires a very solid base to be installed.
Then assemble the overbars and angle iron and screw them to the wall as shown in the figure.
Set the right hand door at the door opening and clamp it for the time being, or have someone fix it in place so that it is centered at the door opening.
Slide the two rollers/hangers over the super pillar railing and place them on the left and right sides of the door to make sure they are in a very solid part of the door.
Mark and drill 1/4 holes through the door to match the two bottom holes of each hanger.
The door is then connected to the hanger using 1/4 bolts and nuts.
Slide the door to the end of the super pillar to make sure it is not bound at all times.
Repeat the installer for the left door.
You will notice that the bolt with the most lag on the outside will stop and prevent the wheel from running from the end of the track.
In order to keep the door vertical when the door is opened and to prevent the wind from blowing outside, install a section of galvanized or aluminum horn iron at the bottom of the door (see arrow)
Fix it on the surface using concrete screws.
Completed sliding door slider.