Jeff Howell answered the reader's question, and I recently conducted a CCTV survey of my 33-year-old major waste dischargeyear-old bungalow.
It shows that the drain material is asphalt fiber and there is a small bubble or two (delaminations)were present.
The entire drain is located under my concrete driveway, about 30 metres long and has three pipes to enter from the kitchen, toilet and bathroom.
Plumber advised me to clean and reconnect the pipe for about £ 2,500.
I would like to know how effective this lining is as they are made on site and seem to be a "patch"up" job.
Will the cost be higher?
Is it effective to install new pipes in the long run?
WB, introduced the asphalt fiber drain pipe in the 1940 s by email and was widely used in the 1970 s.
At that time it was thought they were the latest magic material, cheaper than the fired clay pipes, lighter in weight and easy to handle.
They are made from wood fibers soaked with tar and perform well in the treatment of normal wastewater.
However, they are found to be unresponsive when subjected to a large amount of hot water and grease that soften the tar and cause deformation and leakage.
A recent estimate of the design life of the asphalt fiber pipe is about 40 years, which means that the life expectancy of some people will end.
In the worst case, they can crash and plug the drain.
However, the little layering you describe seems to indicate that your own drainage system is not seriously affected and may have lived in it for several years.
However, you didn't say why a CCTV drainage survey was to be conducted, and if it was because you were already blocked, it might be wise to consider remedial action.
Obviously it is the most professional job to dig a trench and lay a new drain, but because it needs to be dug and re-laid
Laying your concrete drive will be expensive and disruptive.
It might be worth looking into whether the old drain can be abandoned and whether the new drain can be laid next to the driveway.
If this is not possible then drain lining has a good reputation and your offer sounds reasonable.
Spacing between layering and collapse
The fiber pipe can force shape recovery by redesign
Circular tools and resin dragged through them-
The dipped polyester textile lining is designed to be strong enough to withstand further movement.
It may also be worth checking with your insurance company before you do anything, because in some cases, the insurance company has paid the drainage renewal fee under the "accidental damage" claim.
Is the plaster wrong?
I live in a Georgian property with 9 people (225mm)
Brick wall built with sand
Lime mortar, flush finish plastering with traditional lime plastering and lime.
Some rooms require new plaster, but all the contractors I contacted are quoting for the use of modern adhesive plaster with multiple plaster
Finish the skim coat.
I am afraid that these modern hard plasters will not breathe the walls, and any movement in the old solid walls will cause cracks.
Should I be concerned, or is it correct for these contractors to specify modern hard plaster on old flexible walls?
You should use lime-NH, Markyate, Hertsand-
The hair plaster matches the original.
Adhesive plaster and multi
The finish plaster is calcium carbonate and does not fit into the old house with solid walls as it can absorb moisture from the walls and then dissolve.
And, as you said, it's harder than lime plaster, so there's inevitably a crack between the two materials.
Unfortunately, it is difficult to find plasterboard or general builders who understand this or know how to use traditional materials.
You can ask the local conservation officer.
In planning or building control)
If he can recommend anyone
Or get a list of merchants from the construction lime Forum (www.
UK, or send SAE to 33 Barony Street, EH3 6NX, Edinburgh).