Building extra partitions in the basement can increase your living space and is cheaper than building an add-on in your house.
When builders plan to finish the basement, they usually insert anchors into the concrete to make it easier to connect the inner walls.
However, even if there is no anchor, you can still frame the basement with a sturdy wall.
The most common method is to anchor the bottom wall panel on concrete with adhesive and reinforce it with a dynamic driven concrete nail
Drive concrete DingTalk or similar.
In some areas, however, building codes require the floor to float freely from concrete.
Called a floating wall, it is attached to the wall above the floor support beam and the side, but left 1 to 1/2-
Inch gap between the wall floor and the floor below.
Establish the position using the reference point, draw the wall position.
For example, when building a room 10 feet wide, run the tape measure from the outer wall of more than 10 feet in two or three places.
Mark the floor and ceiling with the line of the required Wall length.
Find the floor support beam above the wall position.
In an unfinished basement, these things are always exposed to the ceiling above.
If the wall is parallel to the floor support beam and runs directly under the floor support beam, the entire wall is fixed on the floor support beam.
Every 16 inch m the wall that intersects the floor support beam is anchored on the support beam where the wall and the support beam meet.
If the wall is parallel to the beam but not directly under the beam, cut 2-by-4-
Suitable for inch plates between the beams.
Use two 16d nails to nail the board between the beams every 12 inch times.
This provides an anchor for the wall. Cut two 2-by-4-
Inch plate compared to the required Wall length.
If you intend to connect the treated wood directly to the concrete, use the treated wood.
These boards make up your bottom and top wall panels-
Water plate across vertical columns.
The concrete is easy to transfer moisture, and the untreated wood will eventually rot anywhere in contact with the concrete.
For long walls, divide the walls into several sections and build them in a shorter length ---
For example, a 10-foot-
Long Wall coupled with 14-
Foot Wall part.
Measure the floor under your feet from below the floor support beam on the ceiling.
Record the measurement and do a little math: subtract 3 inch to take into account the top and bottom thickness of the plate.
When you put up the wall, take another 1/2 of the space to clean it up; a full-
When fishing, the high wall is higher than the opening.
Subtract the extra 1 inch if you want the wall to float. The 1 1/2-
The inch gap allows the concrete to move where the soil is unstable without causing pressure on the wall structure.
Place the top and bottom plates of the individual wall sections side by side, with the edges flush.
Mark the bolt position using a tape measure and a square across both board surfaces at the same time.
Draw a line at 1/2, 3 inch, 4 1/2, 16 3/4, then draw a line every 16 inch until the end of the plate.
Marking is 1/2, 3 inch and 1/2 from the end.
Make an "X" on the right side of each measurement ".
This indicates that the right side of the bolt is relative to the line, thus ensuring that each bolt is 16 inch apart in the center-
The Carpenter is represented by "16 oc.
Skip the appropriate number of bolts to create the door opening.
Add 5 inch to the width of the interior door and mark the plate on both sides, make "X" again to indicate the right edge of the bolts involved.
Adding this extra space provides space for the necessary door frames and also provides the necessary clearance after the door post is installed.
Calculate the number of bolts required from the marking of a plate.
Two totals are omitted from the mark because the 3 inch mark will accommodate 2-by-
Not full 4Slength studs.
Compared to the previously determined size, 4 inch plates.
Attach each complete
The length bolt of the first plate, then the opposite.
Align each bolt properly--
The right edge is relative to the mark--
Running depth with the widest surface of the bolt-
Pass the Plate wisely, and the plate can also be placed on the widest face.
Insert two 16d nails through the plate into the end of the bolt to ensure safety.
Tap the short block, from the extra 2-by-
4S, between the last and adjacent bolts on both sides of the wall section.
About 10 to 12 inch long intervals every 6 to 8 inch, which ensures that you have a frame to connect your wall sheath once it's done.
The box door is cut for a month-by-4-
The width of space left between the two outermost nails around the inch panel door is called the King nail.
At the appropriate height, that is, the height of the door plus 2 inch, the nails between the Kings nails.
Extra length of cut 2-by-
4 S from the bottom plate to the horizontal plane--
Call a head--
Plate from head to top.
These are trimmer or Jacks.
Completed with a short board called cripples, from the head to the top plate above the head, each 16 inch or less.
Cut the bottom plate between the innermost bolts to finish the door.
If you choose to stick the wall in the appropriate position, apply a large amount of building adhesive to the bottom of the bottom plate, which rests on the floor.
For floating floors, skip this step.
Erect the wall and locate it exactly as required. Drive powder-
If you choose a solid floor attachment, drive the nail through the sole to enter the concrete.
DingTalk to the adjacent wall through the outside, and nailed to the floor support beam above the wall through the top plate.
For maximum stability, if the bottom is not connected, the wall must be connected to the side and the top, and if the top support is missing, the wall must be connected to the bottom.
Reinforce the wall by installing L-
Bracket on top or bottom plate.
According to the manufacturer's instructions, put one end of the bracket against the plate involved and insert the nail.
Fix the other leg on a wall or wall above the floor or on a pallet.
This is especially effective for walls fixed on wooden floors without beams.