Homeowners complain about having too much storage as if they had too much cash.
It just didn't happen.
Almost every home, regardless of size, lacks accessible storage. Need proof?
Check out the normal garage and you may find it packed with bikes, wood, garden tools, trash cans, outdoor power equipment, sports gear and cars --care supplies.
Cleaning can help you re-organize and recycle some space, but it's just a matter of time before the chaos is restored.
What you really need is more space and one of the best ways to find it is to create it by building a backyard storage shed.
We built a colony.
A mail-style garden cottage is featured here
Order construction plan (
Please see page 112 "publish plan by mail). The 10 x 16-ft.
Easy attached buildingto-
Plywood siding, three large windows and two opposite doors are installed.
The whole building can be used for storage, but we decided to divide the interior space into two separate areas: 4x10-ft. tool-
Storage area and 10x12-ft.
It's hard to say how much it will cost you to build this cottage.
Wood prices fluctuate almost every day, and wood prices vary widely across the country, but the spending figure is between $1600 and $2000.
Bring your plan to your local construction department and apply for a building permit before starting construction.
The project was originally published in Popular Mechanics in June 2002.
You can find more great projects in the popular mechanical DIY center.
The cottage we built was built on 12 solid foundations. Concrete blocks. The 4 x 8 x 16-in.
The blocks are arranged in three rows, with an interval of 59. apart.
These blocks are usually placed directly on the ground, but we put a 4-in.
Because our site occasionally receives groundwater, the gravel layer is the first.
Gravel will prevent soil erosion or moisture under the shed.
Use 2x4 and 4 after laying 12 blocks-ft.
Levels to ensure that all blocks are levels (Photo 1).
Roof with asphalt, cedar wood tile or 2-in. -
Thick concrete patio block.
Next, by nailing the 2x6 on the 2x8 windowsill, each front and back band beam is formed.
Place the Fender at the top of the block before and after passing through the shed.
Cut the third 2 × 8 mudkan along the top of the center row of the base block.
Cut all 2x6 floor beams into length and set them between the two straps and the top of the mud sill (Photo 2).
16 into the space of the beam.
In the center, fix them with 16d galvanized nails (Photo 3).
Before DingTalk the plywood floor, fix the floor frame with four pieces of steel
Cable anchor, this is the code-
Need in some areas.
Fix an anchor in every corner of the frame and push the pinned spike deep into the ground.
For the shed floor, we used 3 Pax 4-in. tongue-and-
ACX plywood slot. Tongue-and-
The groove joint produces a rigid floor that does not rebound or sag.
Fixing plywood with 8d galvanized nails (Photo 4).
Each truss consists of two 2x4 raf and a 2x4 ceiling pallet.
Three planks and 1 plank 2-in.
Plywood buckle plate.
To speed up the assembly process, build all the truss on the shed floor before installing the walls.
First cut all the raf Sub into length with a 40 ° angle at one end of each raf Sub.
Cut the 2x 4S to 10 feet.
Eager for the lower string of the truss.
Also, cut off all the plywood buckles.
Make a template on the shed floor to assemble the truss.
First lay parts for a truss.
Align the lower string with the edge of the plywood floor.
Then cut 4 24-in. -long 2 x 4s.
Put two next to each after and screw to the plywood floor.
These short boards are now used as a block for arranging and assembling each truss.
Fix the plywood buckle with carpenter glue and 1-1 on each side of each trussin. roofing nails (Photo 5)
Put the truss aside.
Cut all 2x4 parts of the end wall and lay them on the shed floor.
Bolts for space 24.
In the center, fix them with 16d nails (Photo 6).
The plywood siding is then cut to the right size and nailed to the wall frame with 6d galvanized nails.
Tilt the wall up in place (Photo 7)
Protect it with 3-in. deck screws (Photo 8).
Frame and erect the back wall, then the front wall.
Then, install the internal partition.
If you include a playroom like us, cover the partition to that room with plywood and screw it in place.
Then install the last wall.
Next, build the door from 1x6 tongueand-
Groove cedar boards and wood strips cut from 1x stock.
Connecting the plate strip with 11 ÷ 2in.
Heavy-duty hinge (Photo 14).
For the windows, we used a wooden barn belt with sloping ventilation (Photo 15). The 2 x 3-ft.
Most lumberjacks sell Windows for about $60.
Install a barrel bolt on top of each belt so they can be locked off.
The textured plywood siding we installed was produced by the factory.
We finished it with two barn coats.
Red acrylic latex paint.
If you want to get your cabin dirty, be sure to buy plywood siding with no primer applied.
Start building the roof by installing the sheath truss at each end of the shed (Photo 9).
Protect these with 3-in.
Drive the deck screws into the top wall panel.
Then, install the remaining roof rack (Photo 10).
Set up a truss on each wall post and drive 3-in.
The deck is tightened through the top wall panel.
Cover the truss with 1 ÷ 2-in.
CDX plywood, then nailed to the top of the asphalt roof (Photo 11).
Fix the perforated cardboard on the partition wall in the toolstorage area (Photo 12)
And install a beam window on the mountain wallend doors (Photo 13).
Make windows by assembling a simple wood frame to secure a double-layer glassstrength glass.