home clinic; working around walls in crooked rooms - partition wall
home clinic; working around walls in crooked rooms  -  partition wall
John Ward Ogg
1993 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
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Building a partition wall is usually a fairly easy task.
But when the existing walls, floors, ceilings are not at right angles, the work can be a nightmare.
These are two walls.
Building methods used by professionals in curved rooms.
Before starting the measurement of the two ends of the existing wall that will be parallel to the partition wall, to determine whether the existing wall is parallel to each other.
If so, measure any of them along the floor at both ends of the room to determine the location of the partition wall.
Mark the position by capturing a chalkline between the two.
If the existing wall is not measured in parallel from one wall.
Mark the floor between the two ends of the closest wall.
Measure the same distance at the other end of the room with the farthest distance from the wall.
Before marking the floor there, subtract the shorter distance between the walls from the larger distance and divide the difference by two.
Add the result to the distance just measured.
Then mark the floor at a point equal to their total number.
Capture a chalkline between the two points to mark the partition wall.
Although the new walls will not be parallel to any of the existing ones, it is different from the existing ones, only half of them are different from themselves.
After marking the floor in either case, use a lead hammer to mark the point on the ceiling directly above the line.
Then snap a blackboard between these points and mark a line on the ceiling.
Measure the distance between the floor and the ceiling in several places along this line.
If the measured height change is less than inches and the room is large enough, you can build the wall frame by horizontal assembly, tilt it up to the right position and adjust it to fit the gasket.
Measure the length of the chalk line on the floor and ceiling, if any, cut the top and bottom of the frame, board and sole into shorter lengths, respectively.
The advertisement determines how many studs nails are needed for the wall.
Studs are usually spaced, so they are centered at 16-
Inch intervals, standard-allowed-
The size of the wall panel or panel is the least wasted.
Cut to the same height, the shortest distance between the floor and the ceiling minus 3 inch and a half.
Shorten them to this distance to allow the thickness of the sole and plate and provide a gap for the tilt frame.
The advertisement assemble the frame by laying the parts on the floor and fixing them together by nailing the outside face of the sole and plate into the end of the bolt.
Most walls use 2x4 or 2x6 Wood. Sixteen-
Penny sink nails are recommended.
To rise and fix the frame, tilt it up and align it with the chalk line on the floor and ceiling.
Keep a height next to the sole.
If necessary, slide the wood gasket under the sole to lift it.
Then fix the sole on the floor by DingTalk the sole and gasket. Use 10-
Nails or longer.
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The best gasket is wedge. shaped cedar-shingle scraps.
Insert two gaskets opposite each other so that their thin ends overlap below the surface.
Then slide or hammer the gasket to each other.
Repeat the process at each end of the wall panel and wall frame.
When flashing between the end head bolt and the Wall, the vertical stays horizontal.
If the plate is perpendicular to the beam, fix the frame to the ceiling with screws.
Place the screws so that they enter the support beam.
If the plate and the support beam run in parallel, fix the plate with Moley bolts or other solid hollow anchorswall fasteners.
These nails and gaskets can also be used to secure the wall.
The advantage of this method is that the speed is fast, because the pieces of the wall frame can be cut in groups into large and small, it is very simple to fix them together.
But if the surface of the room is beyond square inches or if there is no space to assemble the wall frame horizontally, another option is to build the frame in place, one piece at a time.
No gasket is used.
Start by cutting and connecting the sole and plate.
Then cut a tail column, fix it on the wall, and fix it on the plate and sole.
Although toenailing is the usual method of fixing bolts on the plate and sole, it is easier to fix the metal structural angle at each end of the bolt, fixing the bolts in place, then pin the flange with the prominent angle on the plate and the sole.
Then drill a angled hole at the top and bottom of the narrow edge of the bolt and install the screw or 8-
Penny nails like toenailing.
Before installing the remaining bolts, measure 16 inch from the center of the narrow edge of the top end Bolt and hang a lead hammer from the plate at that position.
When bob stops swinging, measure 16 inch from the center of the bolt along the sole.
If the distance is less than the distance from the center of the bolt to the lead hammer, re-hang the lead hammer from the plate until the lead hammer is on the mark.
The object is to establish a position for the second bolt, which is not more than 16 inch at the center of any point along its length from the end Bolt.
Measure, cut and fasten the second bolt.
Then use its center line as the bottom, at 16-
Inches apart to align the remaining bolts.
The interval between the last pair of bolts at the far end of the wall must be 16 inch wide or less.
Cut and secure each bolt separately.
Connect the end bolts in the same way as the beginning.
Once in place and fixed, any wall frame can be covered with wall panels or paneling.
A version of this article was printed on page CN13 of the National edition on August 1, 1993 with the title: Family Clinic;
Work around the wall in a curved room.
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