built-in wardrobe - sliding partition doors

by:EBUNGE     2019-08-09
built-in wardrobe  -  sliding partition doors
Built-
The wardrobe is a good and cheap decoration that allows you to have a lot of extra storage.
They are very simple to build and it is a great project for those who want to develop DIY skills.
You will gain experience in how to frame walls, how to install drywalls, how to paint and how to install a set of sliding doors.
Assuming you already have the tools you need, the cost of the whole project is about $150.
If you don't, what better excuse is there? The built-
The wardrobe described here is designed for shoes (a wardshoe? )
So it's a little lighter than a normal wardrobe, filled with shelves instead of clothes tracks.
However, the building is almost the same as other buildings
In the closet I made.
This is just the only one I want to record.
The building took an afternoon, and then it took a week as much plastering as painting.
This design is suitable for corner wardrobes with full height and wide enough for 4' wide sliding doors (
Two sliding mirror doors that are 2 'wide).
I 've always hated the sloppy boxing that stood out in this room, and we always tripped over the shoes that were rudely thrown on the floor.
The wide wardrobe can solve these two problems.
Just two simple frames are needed and can be screwed to the walls, floors, ceilings and each other.
See sketch for dimensions.
There is a light switch on both sides of the room.
I plan to take the one hidden in the closet and change it to a socket so we can add a small heater in the winter, if needed.
Four racks 400mm apart plus floors will provide separate storage space for footwear for each family member (5).
I added half.
Shelf height 400mm (
Level above the door)
For some additional storage. Materials: 8-
2 × 4 building Wood 8' length 10 pieces a set of sliding doors (
Double fold if you want).
The mirror price I bought was $75.
1 or 2 8' x 4' x 1/2 "pre-dry wall barrel
3 "deck screws 1 drywall corner bead length 3 J-length drywall screw box mixed gypsum box
Bead metal drywall decorative roll for paper sewing drywall tape paint tool: Saw ~ Cordless electric drill ~ Hammer ~ Level ~ Tape measure ~ Square ~ Sperm ~ Utility knives are not professional so I finished most of my building with deck screws instead of nails.
They are strong, they pull the wood together, and most importantly, if you get something dirty, undo your mistake and correct it without damaging anything
It's golden for me and it's really worth a small fee to add.
Put the frame together according to your design.
Make them about 10mm shorter than your ceiling or you will never be able to stand up!
Use a thin block of wood to make a gasket on the top.
Twist the frame to the ceiling beam (or rafters)
And the wall.
Make sure they are vertical (
Using a lead hammer or level)
Perpendicular to the wall (
Use big square or 3-4-5 triangle).
If the wall is not vertical, you may have to use the wedge next to the wall.
The side frame should be screwed to the floor through the bottom plate-
It's easy if you have wood floors, but if you're on the concrete Board shown here, you have to use some concrete anchors.
I 've just used a few rawlplugins and two screws that work closely with the top gasket to make the whole unit Rocksolid.
Drill holes using hammer drills with masonry drill bits.
Luckily, I can do the whole wardrobe with a drywall.
If you are bigger or you want to finish what's inside, you need two sheets of paper.
Carefully measure and cut the drywall with a tool knife.
Score along one side of the ruler, flip the sheet and when you tap gently on the other side it breaks along the line.
Slice the rest of the paper.
Use drywall screws to secure drywall blocks on the frame
Do not make edges near the outside bead or near the door opening as these edges will be J-
Metal profiles.
Put the configuration file
The door revolves around the entire opening (see images)
, And 90 degrees angle beads on the outside.
The profiles will be fixed with dry walls along these edges.
This may be an Instructure in itself, but I'll try to keep it short and provide some handy tips for DIYers.
You can go to many places to find instructions on plastering, but most of them are written by professionals (e. g.
This could be a problem as the pros give good advice but have different priorities for DIYers.
They need to be very fast.
They have a great job. They're good -no, great -with a trowel.
However, if you are the same as me, speed is not a problem --
You live in your house and you want to do it faster and better than you want.
The work you do will be small (
One room at most).
You know what a tro knife is for, but your level of expertise is low.
So, this is my suggestion for slow, low skill level but high quality plastering work. . . 1.
Buy pre-cast plaster.
Professionals never do this.
It's heavy and more expensive, but more importantly, it does a lot slower than what you mix on site.
However, you don't want it to dry up and you want to be able to continue to prepare for all the other little patch work you need to do in the future (
Tip: When you finish a job, shape the plaster plane in the bucket and add water to the top.
Dump it the next time you use it-
If you do, it will last for a few years). 2.
Start with something simple.
Metal beads and fragments near the trim.
You have a straight edge to work on.
Apply to the plaster to make sure it works well and then smooth in a metal edge orientation.
It's here today.
Scrape off the tro and come back tomorrow. 3.
Attach and corner tape.
It's more tricky, but it's easier because you'll wet the paper tape first.
Professionals will never do this because it adds an extra step, they are skilled enough to use dry tape without worrying about the tape falling off or bubbling.
First, cut your tape into the length of each corner, then add it, then wet the tape and squeeze out the excess parts so it will be damp instead of dripping water and hang it nearby
Now go to a corner and apply plaster on both sides from top to bottom, at least 2 "wide.
Now embed the wet tape in the plaster to try to keep it relatively tight (
But don't tear it off! ).
Pick up your tro knife, start at the top, 6 "down on one side, and switch to the other, again.
The plaster behind the tape oozes out, which is good.
All the way to the bottom.
You may have to consider the slight stretch of the tape, it doesn't matter, just pull it tight and continue and you can cut off the excess part of the bottom at the back.
Now put the tape on the plaster and scrape it.
Repeat for all other connections.
Scrape off the tro, have a beer and come back tomorrow. 4.
Before you add a second coat, scrape off any ridges or bumps in the plaster with your spatula.
Don't sprinkle sand unless you don't mind a lot of dust.
When plaster is cast, only one side of the inner corner is made.
Professionals always have both because they are amazing. You're not.
Just do one side so you don't mess up the side you painted when you made the second side.
Scrape off the tro and come back tomorrow. 5.
Since you only made half a coat last time, go back and do step 4 for the other side of each inner corner. 6. Don't sand;
Repeat steps 4 and 5 again.
It should look pretty good.
You may have to move on and widen the plaster each time (
The wider spatula is a great help here).
Once you think it's as good as you can get with the tro knife. . . 7.
You can sand now.
Use a rod Sander with fine grade paper (200+ grit).
It should be very nice and smooth.
Congrats, you did a pro two days to do in two weeks (
They will also do the rest of the house, not just a bad wardrobe).
The good thing is that you're charged $0 for Labor and you're done well and it looks almost as good as a professional job if you're careful.
This wardrobe is specially used to store shoes, so we decided to prepare a large shelf for each family member (5).
I like to build communal furniture with building wood, so I tear two 2x4 wood into 8 19x38mm pieces to make the rack stand.
These form the underside and front lip of each shelf.
I didn't add any side support to the 5/8 plywood shelf because the front and back support made it strong enough.
Then put two coats on the whole wardrobe.
Of course, it makes sense to do this wardrobe Renault while you re-decorate the entire room, otherwise you have to go with the paint carefully. Add trim.
To hang the door, just follow the instructions-
All installation directions and hardware are included.
Basically, you connect the track at the top and bottom with the screws and then clip the door to the track. Easy.
Fill it up with all the shoes, gloves and hats to get them out of your sight and out of your sight.
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